
Although I (basically) no longer know anyone who lives in Chicago, I still figured that since it is such a sweet city it would be a terrific place to spend New Year's Eve 2009. And since it ended up being a four day trip, there was a whole lot of dining and seeing and walking and playing and other assorted things that I shall now review for your reading pleasure.
Food (in Chicago).There is something gross about eating three meals a day at restaurants. At the same time, there is something very royalty like about it. Every meal is made specially for you, whatever whim you have shall be met, and you don't have to do the dishes afterwards (which I actually don't mind...) These restaurants go in no particular order except the last one, I saved the best for last.
Tru (
Website) - this was our fancy pants New Year's Eve dinner. This is about as smarmy as a restaurant gets. Multiple servers at each table, truffle everything, gold flakes and dust abound. For NYE they went even more above and beyond and what was the end result? A pretty average meal with some highlights and some lowlights. The eight courses ranged from pretty delicious (venison and monkfish) to pretty passable (caviar and truffled potatoes). The desserts were good, the service was pretentious (except two of our probably six serves - they actually had a sense of humor - our Barack Obama lookalike waiter however treated us as if we weren't the brightest bulbs, he's not going to win the Nobel Waitstaff Prize anytime soon. Overall, an entertaining and unique way to ring in the New Year. A prime case of you do not always get what you pay for.
Su Casa (49 East Ontario Street, Chicago, IL) - located next to the James Hotel and our decision for a simple meal before our fancy Tru dinner, Su Casa is almost an authentic Mexican place. That being said, it's a below-average almost authentic Mexican place. Ultra-crispy chips, gross (and grossly overpriced) margaritas, average entrees. These all add up to a pretty average meal. If you are looking for Mexican in Chicago, you need to go to El Nuevo Mexicano.
El Nuevo Mexicano (
Website) - At 7 PM on a Tuesday this place had a three deep wait for tables partially because it was hosting a birthday party and partially because it is amazing. An adorable setting with tightly packed chairs might have been a little less comfortable if they hadn't given us one of the rare four person booths instead of cramping us next the others in the side seating. None of that mattered though once the food and drinks started coming. The triple appetizer (quesadillas, guacamole, and nachos) was a great mix of flavors. The tostadas were delicious and the only problem was that the appetizer was so hearty that it was hard to finish them. The flautas were as authentic as they come outside of a street vendor in Mexico. Oh, and the margaritas were more like slushees of greatness. The waitstaff was kind and on point, water was never empty and they were never overbearing. Really a terrific restaurant.
Chicago Firehouse (
Website) - Located on Michigan Avenue inside an old firehouse, this festive pre-Bears meal had some great ambiance and some good food. The seared rare tuna with crostini was above average yet not thrilling, the sauces too sweet for it. The 'Flight' of Filet Mignon came to me with my specifications not followed for the 'fire crust' flavoring yet this actually paid off because the Maytag Blue Cheese crust was delicious. For dessert we had the vanilla creme brulee which was above average.
Gino's East (
Website) - The famous Gino's East deep-dish Chicago pizza did not disappoint. The excessively filling medium pizza was good and our bringing markers to deface their walls (as you are allowed of course) kept us busy the forty minutes or so it takes to make the pizza. Good more so for the experience than for the fact that the pizza is so mind-bottling. In fact, the cornmeal crust actually makes this pizza only average in the grand scheme of pizzas I've eaten in the world. Fun to visit though, and the best example of Chicago Deep Dish I know of.
Breakfast (and bakeries) in Chicago -
The Red Hen, Argo Tea, Alliance Bakery, Mollie's Cupcakes
The Red Hen and Mollie's stood out as higher quality and Argo was average at best. Alliance was physically very appealing (especially their window design) yet their cookies were average at best.
Food (in Milwaukee...the best for last one).Meritage (
Website) - Thankfully a random side trip to Milwaukee was added to this trip as it was the highlight in terms of food (and later you will see in terms of lodging as well!) This restaurant, owned by chef Jan Kelly gets near flawless reviews everywhere and for the right reason - the food. Without a reservation we were fortunate to show up early enough to not be turned away on a Wednesday night for an unforgettable meal. We opted to (partially) share a house salad with blue cheese which was terrific. The main courses though, the eggplant fritter on ratatouille and the flat iron steak with sweet potato fries, were exemplary. Especially the fritter, which was the most flawlessly prepared eggplant either of us had ever had. The desserts though were out of control. The triple chocolate cake (three layers - flourless chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, chocolate ganache) and the eggnog cheesecake with cinnamon whipped cream were impeccable in both appearance and taste. They were so good in fact that I have a call in to see if I can get one of each shipped home to share them with others!
Lodging (Chicago and Milwaukee).Alright, the only truly spectacular lodging was at the
Iron Horse Hotel in Milwaukee, WI. From the valet guys to the woman at the front desk. From the front lobby to the bar. From the library to the art room downstairs. From the risque shower glass to the gorgeous room, this place had it all. Worth every penny and reason alone to visit Milwaukee. The not very close runner up was
The Hotel Blake in Chicago which had a nice spacious room and terrific location yet boasted no particularly impressive traits (and had hallways that smelled a little bit like poo).
If you want to be unimpressed with service, check out the
Ruby Room, which tried to check us into an unclean room (and then directed us to park on any side street because there was no permit needed .... only to later get a ticket). If you want to be unimpressed with the entire staff, the drug smelling hallway, the overpriced room, the pretentious atmosphere, and the shoddy everything but the bed itself, check out
The James.
Be a tourist - Chicago (and everywhere it seems these days) is an expensive place to be a tourist. The Shedd Aquarium is a much better bet than the Adler Planetarium (although both were silly busy). The Skydeck in Willis Towers (formerly the Sears Tower) is cool if you can catch it at night without too many people there - otherwise you have to deal with the teaming hordes getting in the way of your good views. The Bears are good to watch (especially when they shock the world by not being terrible). Walking around the city is really the best bet though, there are so many cool neighborhoods to check out and the people are really quite friendly for the most part.
I don't see myself heading back anytime soon, I've had my share of Chicago for this lifetime. I hope that if you do make it there you find yourself enjoying it as much as we were able to though!